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DetailsContinued surf with the waves size @ 2-3 feet with occasional larger set waves. Light onshore winds are in the forecast
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Reporter: Darbs
11:00 am: We have continued large surf this midday, with semi-choppy surface conditions. The waves are in the 2 to 3 foot range with occasional larger sets, especially on the outside which you can see in the photos in box #2. Our local winds are currently blowing out of the N @ around 10 knots, adding a fair amount of chop and drift to the waves. It’s looking mixed up out there with waves in the waist high plus range, with the largest sets looking to be around shoulder high. Overall, it’s looking like a bit of a paddle out midday but there are some larger waves still to be had, if you don’t mind the chop.
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The strong/prolonged onshore flow last week, combined with an open Atlantic Ocean low east of the Bahamas, built a significant combo swell that will linger the first half of the work week. Warmer weather with more sun and light local wind bodes well for cleaner conditions on Tuesday and Wednesday. Looking way ahead, Dean extended the Surf Station Surf Forecast through Christmas Day, making a long shot gander at the possibility of a hyper-long period ground swell (with offshore wind) at the start of the New Year.
Here is a good link to accurately track real-time, near-shore wave height/period/direction and water temperature just off the NE Florida coast: the Fernandina Beach buoy. Located upstream (to the north) and closer to the coast than the St. Augustine buoy, it’s a good indicator of fluctuations in NE Florida surf conditions influenced by winter cold fronts. Here is an overview of a large-scale, real-time wind map to track the shifting winds associated with the fronts and lows that produce our waves.
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